June 4th marks the day of the anniversary of the Tiananmen Square massacre of 1989 when pro-democracy demonstrators were killed by Chinese government forces in Beijing.
Nowadays Hong Kong is the only city in China where this day can be commemorated and wanting to experience it, I headed to the central Victoria Park on Monday evening, too.
My Hong-Kong-native colleague from work Winnie, who kindly asked me to join her in this adventure and led me the way on my second day in this immense city said, that the celebration is not what it used to be. It is quietly fading, as is the memory of the people. This year it is the 23rd anniversary of the massacre, therefore not a round one, she said. It also falls on a Monday and not the weekend, which might make it less popular. But to our surprise the streets leading to the Park were so packed that it took us about an hour in a slow and cramped procession to get there. Because of the heat and the crowd there was hardly any air to breathe. Winnie’s suggestion to turn my face towards the sky to get some air from higher up proved very necessary and helpful.
The streets leading to Victoria Park were also stages for political activity and advertisement. Posters of several candidates, people shouting slogans into microphones (photo below) as well as donation boxes embellished this pilgrimage road to the park. As I do not understand Cantonese I cannot judge what the shouted promises were. The donation boxes, however, were to support the political endeavours of these candidates, the newly opened Hong Kong 4th of June museum and the soon to come July 1st protest. (Both the June 4th commemoration and July 1st protests are annual pro-democracy events. The latter has been a channel for fighting against the Basic Law Article 23, which threatened Hong Kong’s independent legal system, different from that of mainland China).
The commemoration service was to last from 8 -10 pm. As we got there by 8.20, the huge baseball court where the event took place was already packed with people and there was no possibility to enter. We could find a place to sit down in the adjacent field, where a screen was set up and which was also practically full by then.
Everybody was given a white candle. I noticed some amazingly creative ways of preventing the candle wax to drop on people’ s hands during the two hour ceremony. There were candles melted to stick on top of turned-around plastic soda bottles. Many people had folded paper around the candle in a conic shape. I was a able to catch a photo of a candle stuck through a little McDonalds French fries box (below). Very imaginative!
The commemoration itself included ceremonial drumming, many speeches, songs, stories by victims and survivors. And a minute of silence that was penetrated by the powerful chirring of the cicadas in the trees surrounding the park. There was a speech by a woman from the association of Tiananmen Mothers who had lost her son in the massacre. Tiananmen Mothers echoes the Abuelas and Madres de Plaza de Mayo (Grandmothers and Mothers of May Square) in Buenos Aires, Argentina, who have equally joined to share and express their pain for their disappeared children and grandchildren during the Argentine dictatorship of 1976-83.
There was also a teleconference greeting by Wang Dan, a Chinese democracy activist and one of the main student leaders of the Tiananmen protest in 1989. Now he lives in exile in the US and his greeting came from Harvard.
The event finished with a speech by the organizer of the ceremony who stated that the number of people present in the park this night had been 180 000. Also the donation boxes had been filled, helping to make the newly opened 4th July museum a permanent one. Finally, lists filled with people’s names, who had signed them while visiting the museum and showing solidarity for the 4th July commemoration, were burnt in a ceremonial way. (Apparently in Hong Kong there are shops full of beautiful paper items to burn in memory of the dead, so doing some nice burning in the end of an event like this makes very much sense).
Hong Kong parks have free wi-fy and. Half way through the ceremony, however, with photos of the event going all around the world through people posting them on Facebook, internet was disabled…
For some professional photos of the spell-bounding sea of candles in the Hong Kong night have a look at the photo gallery from the Spanish newspaper El Pais. What my loyal telephone is capable of can be seen below.